Fabric Guide

Fabric Types Glossary — Every Fabric Used in Clothing Manufacturing

A reference guide to the knit and woven fabrics used in garment manufacturing. Each entry covers what the fabric is, its typical GSM range, how it feels, and which garments commonly use it.

Knit Fabrics

Knit fabrics are made by interlocking loops of yarn. This construction gives them natural stretch and recovery, making them the standard choice for t-shirts, activewear, and underwear.

Single Jersey — The most common knit fabric, made with one set of needles on a single knit machine. Lightweight and stretchy with a smooth face and slightly textured back. Typical range: 140-220 GSM. Used for t-shirts, casual tops, and dresses.

Interlock — A double-knit fabric made by interlocking two single jersey layers, giving it a smooth, identical finish on both sides. Heavier and more stable than single jersey with less curling at cut edges. Typical range: 180-260 GSM. Used for premium t-shirts, baby clothing, and lightweight dresses.

Pique (Piqué) — A textured knit with a raised, waffle-like or honeycomb surface pattern, created by a specific knitting stitch. Holds its shape better than single jersey and is more breathable due to the surface texture. Typical range: 180-240 GSM. The standard fabric for polo shirts.

Rib Knit — Made with alternating knit and purl stitches, creating vertical ridges with significant stretch in the width direction. Typical range: 200-300 GSM. Used for collars, cuffs, waistbands, and fitted garments like tank tops.

Fleece — A brushed knit fabric with a soft, napped surface on one or both sides for warmth and insulation. Typical range: 240-450 GSM. The standard fabric for hoodies and sweatshirts.

French Terry — A knit fabric with uncut loops on the inside face, giving it a textured, absorbent feel without the brushed pile of fleece. Lighter and more breathable than fleece. Typical range: 220-320 GSM. Used for lightweight sweatshirts and joggers.

Waffle Knit — A textured knit with a distinctive raised grid pattern that traps air for insulation. Typical range: 180-260 GSM. Used for thermal wear and casual layering pieces.

Jacquard Knit — A knit fabric produced on a jacquard machine that creates patterns directly in the knit structure rather than printing them on. Typical range: 180-280 GSM. Used for patterned sweaters and fashion knitwear.

Ponte / Ponte di Roma — A double-knit fabric, usually a poly-viscose-elastane blend, that is firm, stable, and holds its shape like a woven fabric while retaining stretch. Typical range: 280-350 GSM. Used for structured dresses, leggings, and tailored knitwear.

Woven Fabrics

Woven fabrics are made by crossing two sets of yarns — warp and weft — at right angles on a loom. They have little to no natural stretch (unless elastane is added) and hold structure better than knits.

Poplin — A tightly woven, plain-weave fabric with a fine crosswise rib, giving it a crisp, smooth finish. Typical range: 100-150 GSM. The standard fabric for dress shirts.

Twill — A weave with a diagonal rib pattern, created by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads then under two or more. More durable and wrinkle-resistant than plain weave. Typical range: 150-300 GSM. Used for chinos, workwear, and casual shirts.

Denim — A sturdy twill weave, traditionally cotton, woven with a colored warp yarn (usually indigo) and white weft yarn, creating its characteristic diagonal ribbing and color fade. Typical range: 200-450 GSM depending on wash and construction. Used for jeans and denim jackets.

Canvas — A very heavy, plain or basket-weave fabric known for durability and abrasion resistance. Typical range: 300-600 GSM. Used for workwear, bags, and heavy outerwear.

Oxford — A basket-weave fabric with a slightly rough, textured surface, more casual and durable than poplin. Typical range: 120-180 GSM. Used for casual button-down shirts.

Chambray — A plain-weave fabric that resembles denim but is lighter, made with a colored warp and white weft yarn. Typical range: 100-160 GSM. Used for casual shirts and lightweight summer wear.

Taffeta — A crisp, smooth plain-weave fabric with a slight sheen, made from silk or synthetic fibers. Typical range: 50-100 GSM. Used for linings, formal wear, and structured evening wear.

Satin — A weave (not a fiber) characterized by long floats of yarn on the fabric surface, giving it a glossy, smooth finish. Typical range: 60-150 GSM. Used for linings, blouses, and eveningwear.

Ripstop — A woven fabric with reinforcing threads woven in a crosshatch pattern at intervals, stopping small tears from spreading. Typical range: 60-120 GSM. Used for outdoor gear, packable jackets, and technical outerwear.

Fiber-Based Terms

Unlike weave/knit structure terms above, these describe the raw material the yarn is made from — any of these fibers can be knit or woven into most of the structures above.

Cotton — A natural fiber from the cotton plant, breathable and soft, the most widely used fiber in apparel. See our organic cotton and cotton clothing pages.

Polyester — A synthetic fiber known for durability, wrinkle resistance, and quick-dry properties. See our polyester clothing page.

Modal — A semi-synthetic fiber made from beech tree cellulose, softer and more breathable than cotton with better drape. See our modal clothing page.

Tencel (Lyocell) — A semi-synthetic fiber made from wood pulp using a closed-loop, low-waste production process. See our Tencel clothing page.

Bamboo — A semi-synthetic fiber processed from bamboo pulp, naturally antibacterial and moisture-wicking. See our bamboo clothing page.

Hemp — A natural bast fiber, durable and low-impact to grow, often blended with cotton for softness. See our hemp clothing page.

Linen — A natural bast fiber from the flax plant, highly breathable with a distinctive textured drape, prone to wrinkling. See our linen clothing page.

Wool — A natural protein fiber from sheep, warm, elastic, and naturally moisture-wicking. See our wool clothing page.

Cashmere — A luxury natural fiber from cashmere goats, exceptionally soft and warm relative to its weight. See our cashmere clothing page.

Silk — A natural protein fiber produced by silkworms, prized for its sheen, drape, and temperature-regulating properties.

Recycled Polyester (rPET) — Polyester fiber made from recycled plastic bottles or textile waste, functionally identical to virgin polyester. See our recycled clothing page.

Knit vs Woven — Which to Choose

Choose knit fabrics when your garment needs stretch and ease of movement — t-shirts, activewear, underwear, and fitted garments all rely on knit construction for comfort and flexibility.

Choose woven fabrics when your garment needs structure and a tailored silhouette — shirts, trousers, jackets, and formal wear rely on woven construction to hold shape and drape predictably.

Fabric Glossary FAQ

What is the difference between knit and woven fabric? Knit fabric is made by interlocking loops of yarn, which gives it natural stretch — used for t-shirts, hoodies, and activewear. Woven fabric is made by crossing two sets of yarns at right angles, which gives it structure and less stretch — used for shirts, trousers, and jackets.

Which fabric is best for t-shirts? Single jersey is the standard fabric for t-shirts, typically 140-220 GSM in 100% cotton or cotton blends. It is lightweight, breathable, and cost-effective for high-volume production.

What fabric is used for polo shirts? Pique is the standard fabric for polo shirts. Its raised, textured knit structure holds shape better than single jersey and is typically 180-240 GSM.

Is fleece a knit or woven fabric? Fleece is a knit fabric. It is brushed on one or both sides after knitting to create its characteristic soft, napped surface.

What is the strongest fabric for workwear? Canvas and heavy twill weaves (above 300 GSM) offer the best abrasion resistance and durability for workwear and heavy-use garments.

Not sure which fabric fits your design? SDF Clothing sources and tests fabric options for every garment type, and provides swatches before bulk production.

Discuss Fabric Options

Want to understand fabric weight specifically? Read our Fabric GSM Explained guide, or explore fabric sourcing for how we select and source fabric for your order.